We dropped anchor at 1500 local time today in Baie Tahauka on the island of Hiva Oa, Marquesas. We are so happy to be here. Not only are we barely moving at anchor, this place is beautiful. There are about 15 boats sharing the anchorage with us, including our friends on Cinderella (we last saw them in Costa Rica back in April). We did a quick reconnaissance of the immediate area ashore and bought a fresh baguette and some New Zealand butter at the gas station. We’ll check in with the local Gendarme tomorrow to make things official, then it’s time to explore. For this evening, we’re quite content to have a sundowner, our baguette and brie, and get a much needed FULL night’s sleep! Thanks for following along on our passage. Be on the lookout for our insights on 20 days at sea and our Galapagos post (as soon as we find some decent internet).
Current location: Lat 09 48.215S Long 139 01.925W – AT ANCHOR! Distance traveled: 189 NM
We’re about 125 miles from the island of Hiva Oa. We should arrive sometime tomorrow, depending on the wind. Right now, it is light and from a less than ideal direction so we’re having to head more north than we’d like, which mean more miles. But the seas are calm and we’re having a nice downwind sail on a beautiful afternoon. We’re in a wing-on-wing configuration with the mainsail out on the port side of the boat and the jib poled out on the starboard side. This allows us to sail with the wind right on our tail and make up several degrees of angle toward our destination. Hopefully tomorrow’s update will be the last before we make landfall. Stay tuned!
Breakfast: Steel cut rolled oats w/honey drizzle, cinnamon and dried fruit, cafe au lait
Lunch: Grilled meat on a bun with dijon and hand-prepared relish, chips (it was calm enough to grill!)
Dinner: Meat, beans and cheese wrapped in a crispy tortilla blanket with house-made sour cream, pico de gallo and salsa picante
Evening entertainment: “Forgetting Sarah Marshall”
Current location: Lat 10 17.495S Long 136 58.603W
Distance traveled: 182 NM
It’s Bastille Day in French Polynesia. There are parties, traditional dances, lots of food and fun. Unfortunately we aren’t there to help celebrate. We’re still a couple of days out. The wind and seas are not cooperating; in fact, they seem to have something against us (and each other). The wind is light and the seas are big and lumpy, making for a very uncomfortable motion. We’re hanging in there, though, with visions of calmer surroundings in our heads. Reports from the boats ahead of us are good and we’re looking forward to finishing this passage and meeting up with the crowd.
Breakfast: Toast and coffee
Lunch: Ham and cheese sandwiches
Dinner: Breast of chicken in a lemon pepper, white wine reduction, served with roasted rosemary potatoes and steamed peas
Evening entertainment: “The Office” and “Modern Family”
Current location: Lat 09 57.937S Long 134 42.486W
Distance traveled: 190 NM
Trying to stand, and walk, on a sailboat constantly rolling from side to side in a big swell… the struggle is real. We’re getting better at it but today has been testing us mightily. Simply standing still is even a challenge. We’ve both developed a touch of tendinitis in our dominant legs (Wags’ left and my right) from constantly bracing ourselves in order to perform such simple tasks as, say, making a meal or brushing our teeth. This is probably the most frustrating part of the passage, in fact. We’re really hoping for smoother seas over the next couple of days so we can finish on a high (and stable) note.
Breakfast: Griddle cakes with LOTS of syrup
Lunch: Nothing… still running on griddle cakes
Dinner: Penne pasta with basil, garlic and parmesan, served with garlic bread
Evening entertainment: “Blade Runner 2049”
Current location: Lat 09 54.722S Long 132 04.104W
Distance traveled: 184 NM
Strong winds (20+ kts) and confused, lumpy seas have returned over the past twelve hours. With a reefed headsail and a triple-reefed mainsail we’re still managing a speed of 7 kts. Unfortunately the winds are insidiously pushing us more south than we need to be so we’re anticipating a necessary jibe sometime over the next couple of days to regain our northerly ground. Other than that, all is well.
Breakfast: Farewell to Eggs – eggs (the last ones), bacon, toast, coffee
Lunch: EMFH (basically, brownies)
Dinner: Ploughman’s plate of meat, cheese and olives
Evening entertainment: “Saving Silverman”
Current location: Lat 09 16.748S Long 129 35.147W
Distance traveled: 182 NM
The days tick by with a predictable routine… eat, nap, read, eat, evening entertainment, sleep, stand watch, repeat. We aren’t bored, as the weather and seas continually throw challenges at us – a sudden squall, a rolly motion preventing all manner of rest, a line in the prop (okay, that last one was us). During the day, there’s not a lot to see. The sky is blue, the ocean is a deeper shade of blue, the sun is hot. Occasionally a bird, perhaps a shearwater or petrel, does a fly-by as he searches for food. Today a brown boobie attempted to land on our solar panels but promptly slid off and settled for a water landing instead. The swell rolls underneath the boat and as the bow breaks the surface, schools of flying fish take to the air to seek refuge in the next wave. Inevitably, a few end up as casualties on our deck. We haven’t seen much other marine life but we hope to as we get closer to land. After dark the lights come out. Often there is bioluminescence putting on a sparkling show as Gadabout slices through the water. Last night, there was no moon and no cloud cover, and the stars were incredible. Being here, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, we can’t help but think how much light pollution prevents us from viewing this full spectacle elsewhere. As we count the shooting stars, we remind ourselves how fortunate we are to have the opportunity to experience it.
Breakfast: Encore of toasted Galapagos panaderia bread w/nut butter, honey and blueberry jam
Lunch: Salad of albacore tuna served between toast points
Dinner: Pan-seared mahi-mahi and black bean tacos w/ranch aioli and fresh cilantro
Evening entertainment: “Brooklyn Nine Nine” and “Modern Family”
Current location: Lat 08 45.266S Long 126 57.533W
Distance traveled: 185 NM
Last night was a frustratingly mixed bag of weather. We started our watch schedule in 12-15 knots of wind with smooth seas (perfect). At midnight it was raining and gusting to 27 knots (not ideal but we were moving). By 2:00a the wind had shifted 180 degrees and was pushing us in the wrong direction. An hour later, it died and left us becalmed and rolling wildly abeam to the swell. We took it as long as we could (which wasn’t long) then fired up the iron ginny and motored the rest of the night. With the wind back to its “normal” direction this morning we were able to turn off the engine and resume sailing. Ah… much better. It’s a beautiful sunny day and we’re nearing our “1000 miles to go” mark. A special treat may be in order.
Breakfast: Unleavened triple berry muffins with creamy Galapagos margarine, coffee
Lunch: Next day curried chicken salad and pepper jack cheese w/rosemary crisps
Dinner: Artisanal Farm to Table Lasagna Redux
Evening entertainment: “Super 8”
Current location: Lat 07 20.414S Long 121 49.568W
Distance traveled: 172 NM
Posting two updates today as yesterday’s failed to make it from the composed to the sent file.
For the first time in three days we’ve managed to sail generally in the right direction for an entire day without having to jibe. And, we have less than 1000 miles to landfall. So we’re making brownies to celebrate! That is all.
Breakfast: Toasted Galapagos panaderia bread w/nut butter, honey and blueberry jam
Lunch: Organic cous-cous salad with artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes and feta
Dinner: Shrimp sautéed in a butter and white wine reduction, served on a bed of linguine
Evening entertainment: “Northern Exposure”
Current location: Lat 08 20.894S Long 124 22.166W
Distance traveled: 184 NM
Progress was a little slower the past 24 hours as we (figuratively) powered through a couple of periods of light winds. We’ve been practicing our French and reading voraciously. The improved sea state is helping us to catch up on some much needed sleep – it’s much easier to do so when you don’t have to tense your entire body every five seconds to avoid rolling out of bed. We’ve been keeping in contact with a group of boats that left the Galapagos around the same time we did. The daily email updates are a good source of information and entertainment. With crews from France, Belgium, Germany, Poland, Italy, Hong Kong and Mauritius, World Cup soccer is a frequent topic, complete with the requisite smack talk. Obviously, we have nothing to add since the USA is nowhere near the event this year but we’re rooting for all and will pick sides if/when required.
Breakfast: Nut butter & honey toast, all natural yogurt w/berries, coffee
Lunch: Curried encapsulated chicken and chickpea salad, sweet onion and sour cream potato crisps
Dinner: Chunky corn chowder served with salted flatbreads
Evening entertainment: Episodes of “Bob’s Burgers” and “Parks & Recreation”
Current location: Lat 07 01.081S Long 119 44.320W
Distance traveled: 170 NM
The seas have calmed considerably, the sun is out, and a white tropic bird just cruised past for a closer look at us, all the way out here, 1700 miles from land. Unfortunately, like yesterday, the wind has shifted to the E/NE so we had to again jibe to gain some northerly direction. The swell is more on our tail, though, which makes for a somewhat comfortable ride. No other news to report.
Breakfast: Egg, veggie and sausage scramble, coffee
Lunch: Ham and cheese crepe roll-ups
Dinner: Black bean quesadillas with salsa and homemade sour cream
Evening entertainment: “Intolerable Cruelty”
Current location: Lat 07 03.011S Long 117 42.408W
Distance traveled: 180 NM
Well, part of yesterday’s wish came true… we finally have a sunny day. The seas are still large and confused, though, and continue to dish out a rolly ride. And the wind, well, let’s just say it has stopped fully cooperating. It’s still strong enough to require a deeply reefed mainsail, but the direction has pushed us farther south than we want to be so today we jibed (meaning, we changed tacks) in order to gain back some of our northerly direction. Luckily we’re still heading west, at least, and not going backward.
The best part of today is that we reached our halfway point! We are halfway between the Galapagos and the Marquesas islands. If all goes well we should make landfall in about nine days. To celebrate the momentous occasion, Wags made some awesome crepes this morning. We also set our clocks back an hour and will be doing so again for the next couple of days. We’re not sure exactly which time zone we’re in right now but we know the sun shouldn’t be rising at 9:00a and setting at 9:00p.
Breakfast: Freshly-made crepes topped with beurre et sucre (butter & sugar), and nutella with bananas
Last night’s dinner: Thai Vegetable Red curry over rice
Last evening’s entertainment: Rainy day double feature! “The African Queen” in the afternoon; Veep and Brooklyn Nine-nine in the evening.
Current location: Lat 07 04.113S Long 115 21.958W
Distance traveled: 191 NM
Over the last couple of days we’ve had a consistent 15-20 kts of wind. That would be perfect if it weren’t for the higher gusts, which tend to make the boat corkscrew. We’ve reefed our mainsail to about half and are flying the full jib, although last night we reduced that to about half, as well, as we were seeing gusts of 25-30 kts. The seas have built over the last two days and are now 3-4 meters and quite confused, meaning we are constantly rolling from side to side. No danger, but it’s very uncomfortable and, frankly, more than a little bit annoying. On top of that it’s grey and overcast. We’re hoping the sun will come out and things will smooth out soon.
Breakfast: Tart cherry Seattle scones with butter, jam and honey, coffee
Lunch: EMFH (every man for him/her self)
Dinner: Locally sourced AMERICAN caught Mahi-mahi sashimi with a side of rice and soy/wasabi dipping sauce, miso soup
Evening entertainment: “National Lampoon’s Vacation” (what’s more American than a good road trip?!)
Current location: Lat 06 43.563S Long 113 01.159W
Distance traveled: 184 NM